A Thousand Sighs, A Thousand Revolts Read online

  Table of Contents

  Title Page

  Praise

  Acknowledgments

  Author’s Note

  Preface

  CHAPTER ONE - Through the Back Door

  CHAPTER TWO - Arrival

  CHAPTER THREE - The Little Engine That Could

  CHAPTER FOUR - After al-Anfal

  CHAPTER FIVE - Disturbances

  CHAPTER SIX - Balancing Acts

  CHAPTER SEVEN - Questions of Honor

  CHAPTER EIGHT - The Cult of the Angels

  CHAPTER NINE - From Kings to Parliamentarians

  CHAPTER TEN - Invitations

  CHAPTER ELEVEN - Along the Hamilton Road, with Side Trips

  CHAPTER TWELVE - In the Land of the Babans

  CHAPTER THIRTEEN - Judgment Day

  CHAPTER FOURTEEN - Safe Havens

  CHAPTER FIFTEEN - Syrian Interlude

  CHAPTER SIXTEEN - Of Politics and Poetry

  CHAPTER SEVENTEEN - Land of Lions

  CHAPTER EIGHTEEN - “Happy Is He Who Calls Himself a Turk”

  CHAPTER NINETEEN - Alone After Dark

  CHAPTER TWENTY - Not for Money

  CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE - Kurds Among Nations

  Afterword

  Notes

  Bibliography

  Reading Group Questions and Topics for Discussion

  About the Author

  Also by Christiane Bird

  Copyright Page

  PRAISE FOR A Thousand Sighs, A Thousand Revolts

  “Bird’s book is travel writing at its finest—fresh, exotic, illuminating.”

  —Seattle Post-Intelligencer

  “Impressive reportage, a fearless commitment to seeing what there is to see, and a strong sense of history: a fine work of literary travel, one that honors its subjects.”

  —Kirkus Reviews (starred)

  “Christiane Bird writes with an open mind, an eye for detail, and a clear voice. No one who wishes to be informed on what is going on in the world can afford to skip this important book about a little known and often abused people.”

  —MARK KURLANSKY,

  author of 1968: The Year That Rocked the World

  “Crisp and vivid.”

  —The Houston Chronicle

  “Readable and rich with detail, A Thousand Sighs, A Thousand Revolts provides an honest, often-heartbreaking portrait of a people divided by borders and even language. . . . This book is the best available introduction to the Kurds.”

  —New York Post

  “This book contains much more than an exotic tour account. . . . Bird brings depth of knowledge, sensitivity and just plain courage to her pilgrimages.”

  —Milwaukee Journal Sentinal

  “One of Christiane Bird’s revelations in A Thousand Sighs, A Thousand Revolts is that in the Middle East, one should never confuse minority with marginality. This account by a particularly attentive American woman journeying into the land of the Kurds helps readers understand the most striking feature of the Middle East: complexity.”

  —FATEMA MERNISSI,

  author of Beyond the Veil and Islam and Democracy

  “Bird . . . skillfully weaves together an overview of the Kurds’ past and politics with vignettes of the daily lives of individuals.”

  — St. Petersburg Times

  “Timely and highly informative.”

  —The Washington Times

  “As Bird travels through Kurdistan (a country that isn’t on any map), she meets an array of people, from scholars to bus drivers. Each story of conflict, poverty, homelessness and suffering is like a brushstroke in a larger portrait of the Kurdish experience. Bird’s talent for blending reportage with illuminating tales from individuals makes this a notable and much needed work.”

  —Publishers Weekly

  “Christiane Bird travels enviably and intrepidly about her selected neck of the world. In A Thousand Sighs, A Thousand Revolts, she writes intelligently, personably, tirelessly, and engrossingly about the Kurds, a people execrably abused and eminently worth learning about.”

  —EDWARD HOAGLAND

  “News reports tend to reduce the Kurds to an abstract political factor, but this book restores their human face.”

  —International Travel News

  “A lively and informative account . . . a welcome addition to the flourishing literature on the Kurds.”

  —Middle East Journal

  Acknowledgments

  THIS BOOK COULD NOT HAVE BEEN WRITTEN WITHOUT THE HELP of many Kurds and scholars. Many magnanimously opened their homes and lives to me; others gave generously of their time and expertise.

  For the Iraq section, I am especially indebted to Nesreen Mustafa Siddeek Berwari, who filled me in on many aspects of life in Kurdistan, hosted me in Erbil, and provided me with numerous introductions, and to Diane E. King, who gave me much invaluable advice and insight, and read the Iraq chapters in manuscript. A special thanks, too, to my kind hosts in Dohuk, Majed Sayyed Saleh and family, who helped me in innumerable ways, and to Carole A. O’Leary, who first introduced me to Iraqi Kurdish affairs and also read the Iraq chapters in manuscript. Shayee Khanaka was an astute and helpful reader as well.

  I am indebted to many other Iraqi Kurdish families who hosted me during my stay. My thanks to the Shamdeen family in Zakho, Muhsen Saleh Abdul Aziz and family in Amadiya, Kamerin Khairy Beg and family in Baadri, Yassim Muhammad Wossou and family in Erbil, the Rozhbayani family in Erbil, the students at the University of Salahuddin in Erbil, Guergis Yalda and family in Diana, and the family of Hamin Kak Amin Bilbas in Raniya. In Syria, the Shweish family and others who prefer to go unnamed warmly welcomed me into their homes and provided me with an excellent introduction to their country.

  I also owe a great deal to the many Iraqi Kurds who went far out of their way to serve as my guides and translators, usually on an informal and voluntary basis. In Dohuk, Dr. Shawkat Bamarni, Dilovan Muhammad Amin, Dr. Saadi Namaste Bamerni, Bayan Ahmed, Yousif Chamsayidi, Zerrin Ibrahim, Dr. Khairy, Mr. Fadhil, and Dr. Jasim Elias Murad were especially helpful, with Dilovan serving as my ad hoc research assistant after I returned home. In Zahko, Nazira Shamdeen gave me especially perceptive insight into her world and culture. In Erbil, Fawzi Hariri, Rezan Yousif, Hozak Zahir, Himdad Abdul-Qahhar, Othman Rashad Mufti, and Yonadam Kanna helped me explore the city, while in Barzan, Dr. Abdullah Loqman and Saleh Mahmoud Barzani did the same. In Suleimaniyah, Nizar Ghafur Agha Said and Dildar Majeed Kittani were translators par excellence, while Safwat Rashid Sidqi, Dr. Fouad Baban, Rewaz Faiq, and Yousif Hassan Hussein showed me parts of Kurdistan that I would not have seen without them. In Halabja and Suleimaniyah, Dr. Adil Karem Fatah took much time out of a busy schedule to help me conduct numerous interviews. Also most helpful were my translators Khalid Muhammad Hassan Sharafani in Sumel, Hickmat Mustafa Mahmoud in Amadiya, Imad Salman in Chamsaida, Janet Iskail in Diana, and Ayub Nuri in Suleimaniyah.

  Before leaving for Iraq and Syria, I was in contact with many experts who both encouraged me to make the trip and helped prepare me for my journey: Michael Rubin, Omar Sheikhmous, KDP and PUK representatives in the United States and Damascus, Mike Amitay, Deirdre Russo, Joost Hilterman, Dr. Ali Sindi, Kathy Fuad, and David Hirst. After I returned home, the Washington Kurdish Institute, and Stafford Clarry and Ann Mirani in Kurdistan did a superb job of sending me news stories about the Iraq war, its aftermath, and other developments in the region.

  For the Iran section, I am especially grateful to Soleyman Soltanian in Tehran for his advice, hospitality, and many introductions, and to his son Babak for first introducing me to his father. My thanks as well to the Bahri, Sedighi, and Najafi families,
who hosted me in Mahabad, Sanandaj, and Kermanshah respectively; to Hiwa Soofyeh, who gave me much poetic insight into Kurdish culture; and to my old friends Bahman and Chris Faratian and Babak Azimi, who welcomed me back into their country with open arms. Hasham Salami introduced me to Iranian Kurdish folklore, his son Siamand Salami filled me in on the music of the Ahl-e Haqq, Fatah Amiri and family welcomed me in Bukan, Omid Varzandeh was an excellent translator in Tehran, and Mehrdad E. Izady offered me pretrip advice. Shirin Rewaz was my gracious host in Urumieh, Nasreen Jaferi and Parang Shafai served as my able guides and hosts in Mahabad, and the Greenway conference organizers were my enthusiastic escorts in Sanandaj.

  For the Turkey section, I am especially indebted to Kani Xulam, who provided me with many contact names and answered many of my questions, and to the Sevinc family in Istanbul, who went far out of their way to help me in my research. In addition, I would like to thank Henri J. Barkey for reading the Turkey chapters in manuscript; A. Celil Kaya, Sedef Esirgenc, and Hivda Ustebay for serving as my translators; Suzan Samanci for her delightful company and hospitality; and Kevin McKiernan, Sennacherib Daniel, Jordan Bell, and Gregory Scarborough for their pretrip advice. I am also deeply grateful to Kurdologists Martin van Bruinessen and David McDowall, whose exhaustive works inform much in the following pages.

  I would like to thank my editors: Wendy Hubbert, without whose enthusiasm this book might never have been written; Nancy Miller, for her unfailing insight and friendship; and Dana Isaacson, for his skillful tightening and line editing. A special thanks also to my agent Neeti Madan for her belief in this project, to my friends Barbara Feinberg and Kim Larsen for reading early drafts of several chapters, and to Jerry Brown and my family for their steadfast support throughout the research, writing, and publishing process.

  The mountains, always the mountains,

  held the old man’s gaze.

  There is a fascination about them that it is not necessary

  to be a Kurd or a Persian to be able to acquire.

  TO MESOPOTAMIA AND KURDISTAN IN DISGUISE,

  Ely Bannister Soane

  Author’s Note

  BECAUSE OF POLITICAL CONSIDERATIONS AND TO PROTECT some individuals’ privacy, I have changed some names and identifying details in this book. Because there is no standard transliteration from Kurdish, Persian, or Arabic into English, I have generally chosen to spell words as simply as possible and according to how they are pronounced. I have spelled people’s names according to their personal preferences.

  Preface

  THROUGHOUT 2003 THE WAR IN IRAQ AND ITS AFTERMATH dominated the media. Early in the year, thousands of pundits, journalists, and talking heads—along with everyone else—speculated on when the war would begin, whether weapons of mass destruction would be found, and what the overthrow of Saddam Hussein would mean for Iraq and the rest of the Middle East. That spring, from the first attack on Baghdad on March 20 through President George W. Bush’s declaration of the end of major combat on May 1, reporters delivered visceral, blow-by-blow accounts of the conflict, bringing a virtual war into nearly every living room. And after the “shock and awe” was over, and the statues of Saddam Hussein came tumbling down, the media roar continued; it became apparent that the Iraq story had legs that would carry it well into the future.

  Yet for me, the barrage of media coverage often obscured more than it revealed. I had spent three months in northern Iraq in the spring of 2002—a year before the war—and two months in the bordering Iranian and Turkish regions the following fall, exploring Kurdistan, or the land of the Kurds—a country that exists on few maps, but in many hearts. I got the most tangible news from the region not from the media but in e-mails from my Kurdish friends in Iraq, Iran, and Turkey. Their messages were often short and simple, and written in broken English, with much of the drama between the lines.

  Dear Christiane, So happy to hear from you. Here in Kurdistan the situation is calm and no tension yet. All the people are happy to hear the words of war and they all hope it will be the end of the 13 years sad and tragic story. Iraq without Saddam will be better. Sincerely, Amin

  Hello Christiane, Happy New Year to you. I see you are very curious about war but here in Iran it is an ordinary matter and the poverty is the most important thing. Enshahallah the war will not occur. Best wishes, Hiwa

  Dear friend: Every day we are getting closer to war. And people who are living in this area are getting more anxious. I hope it won’t happen. But the Turkey government is insisting on war. And this situation makes us worry. I hope you are trying to do something to prevent this dirty war. Best wishes, Celil

  Dear Christiane—The people here are preparing themselves to go to the mountains in case of war. The situation is bad, and people are frightened. The real tension began a week ago with hearing news that the Turkish armies might participate in the campaign against Iraq. Most of the Kurds think they will have to fight Saddam and the Turks at the same time.

  About me, I’m also preparing with my family to escape; you don’t need to be so smart to know that there will be a bloody conflict. And it will be like a hell. I’m going to prepare a bag with every thing we will need after escaping. Medical needs, food, heavy clothes. And I have a further plan. In middle of turmoil I will cross the border out of Iraq. I’m not going to wait till the war to end, there will be no end for it.

  Till your reply to this message, take care of your self. The time is exactly 11.15 PM, while I’m writing to you, I already opened the window, snow, snow! Best, Amin

  Dear Ms. Christiane, So far I’m fine and still in one piece. Not only me but almost all the people are ready to leave to the mountains if needed. We are afraid from Satin Saddam if he decided to revenge against us for being close friend to the US.

  Yes, I still feel danger from Baghdad as my head is still wanted. I still have my bodyguards assigned by the Governor and I go around with them.

  I’m VERY WORRIED about the Turkish troops in northern Iraq. For two days, I have been visiting the Refugee Camps and was trying to calm them down. They are TERRIFIED and I can understand their fear. I cannot wait until I see your brothers and sisters when they arrive. MY DREAM IS BECOMING TRUE!

  We have a lot of snow here and it is VERY cold. There is a big shortage on Fuel. Lots of love. Always, ZERRIN

  Dear Christiane: As you know the war has began and now Iraq is conflicting with several problems. You know, many years we Kurds have been in war, it’s really an ordinary matter to us. More people in Iran follow the news for their curiosity. Nearly all the people wish Iraq to resist because they think western forces are cruel. Perhaps refugees will come to Iran in next days, this has occurred when Saddam attacked Halabja by chemical weapons.

  Today is 3rd day of 1382, so that we are in New Year vacations, weather is very good, everywhere is calm, I want to wander every day I can! (The great poet hiwa!) Tell me about yourself and write more. Your friend, Hiwa

  Dear beloved Christiane, Thank you for your congratulations to see the statue of Saddam coming down! But first of all, let me congratulate YOU and all AMERICANS for the great Job and VICTORY. We LOVE your country and are proud of your soldiers because they FREE us from Satin Saddam.

  Secondly, for the first time today, I went to the office without my body guards. I can not believe it. Is not that wonderful? I’m planing to make a BIG PARTY in the UN CLUB and you are MOST WELCOME to attend it. I’m SO HAPPY you can not imagine. Remain in touch and lots of love. Sincerely, your sister in FREE IRQ, Zerrin

  Dear Christiane, You can not imagine the joy of the Kurdish people, I have never seen them so happy. Whatever the future will be it will not be worse than what we had, so everyone is optimistic. The best business today in Sulaimany is the shop who makes American, British, and Kurdish flags (16 hours a day). Photos of President Bush on cars, shops, and in homes. Dancing and music until late evening. People are looking forward to travel to Baghdad without restriction, fear and discrimination. Regards, Nizar

  D
ear Christiane, No, there is not any extra pressure on kurds in Iran because of the war. We are very happy about the overthrowing of Saddam’s Regime. Our governmental officials are also very happy because Saddam and his friends were very dangerous enemy of Iran’s people. But there is a very important question: What is the next target for USA? Which regime will join Saddam’s system? Good Luck, Soleyman

  Dear Christiane, The art institute is open again, and we have a very hard task to get things back to normal, especially the student’s mood. In Dohuk things are fine, and you can meet many American’s soldiers in the streets. The American’s are welcome here, people love them and showing great admire. No soldier can walk alone, people simply follow and stopping him to shake hands, saying (hi), or to print a kiss on his cheeks.

  During the war, I tried to cross the border, but no luck. After a few days I was back again in Dohuk. Hugs, Amin

  Dear Miss Christiane, I am so sorry because I haven’t sent you a message for a long time. As you know, I am so busy at work and at home also. Anyway Miss Christiane if you are asking about Iraq in general, I don’t think that the situation is stable. We don’t have a president and a government so how we will have stability, but anyway I am very happy because the regime was down so soon. Day by day the Iraqi people are discovering new mass graves. I can not imagine how savages Saadam and his followers were. Concerning Kurdistan the situation is different but also people here are anxious and worried. People didn’t get their wages and everything is expensive but it is better than in the other parts of Iraq. I hope this will soon be over. With best wishes. Bayan

  During much of 2003, I thought that I would return to Iraqi Kurdistan postwar to gather material for this book’s final chapter. For months, my plans were to revisit the former “northern no-fly zone” to see firsthand what changes had occurred since the toppling of the Baath regime. But as the future of Iraq seemed to grow less rather than more settled, I realized that even safety issues, travel expenses, and publishing deadline pressures aside, I didn’t want to go back. Like the barrage of media reports surrounding the war, I feared that for me, going back would obscure more than it revealed. Whatever insights I had gained into one of the world’s oldest yet least-known cultures during my 2002 travels would not be honed by a hasty trip to view what was still only a thin layer of political change. Wars in Kurdistan came and went; life went on.